La Rioja is no more than 2 hours from San Sebastian by car. It is a nice change of pace and I am ready to learn more about what Spain has to offer wine-wise. Like in most wine-centric European countries, the Spanish waiters, bartenders and even the average joe is passionate about and knows a great deal about his country’s wine. It is a great way to discover a smaller producer who doesn’t have enough inventory to ship to the USA.
The first stop is just outside of Laguardia in a town called Paganos to eat at HECTOR ORIBE. Apparently, wine-makers frequent the restaurant.
The wine list is quite unique printed on a wine bottle and well-priced, I might add. The waitress recommended this quite tasty Crianza (aged less than a Reserva).
The menu is an interesting mix, rustic and elegant dishes. I could have eaten here several times, in fact! Both the braised ox tail and the pigeon are terrific and a great compliment to the wine.
Rioja does have some interesting architecture, but Frank Gehry’s Marquis de Riscal is a must see.
It’s also a good place for a drink and to soak in the view.
The town of Laguardia is quaint and pedestrian only. Located near the car parking on the side of the hill with sweeping views of La Rioja you will find MARISA IN HOTEL MARIXA.
The area is known for its milk fed baby lamb (left). The baby goat, right, was some of the most delicious I have tasted.
Laguardia’s most famous restaurant (in American publications anyway) is POSADA MAYOR DE MIGUELOA. The food is good enough but something is lost in the overall dining experience for me when I am seated in a room of tourists. Further, the proprietress doesn’t exactly exude an attitude that seems to attach a high value to repeat business.
Another helping of that baby lamb and it’s exciting to see that the Spaniards like their beef cooked just the way I do! If you have only one meal in Laguardia, I’d go for Marisa with the locals and the view though.
My Favorite wine stop was at the Bodega (winery) of Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez.
The building where they age the wines in barrels, french oak barrique and bottles is, for the most part, underground with very thick walls comprised of compressed soil. The composition of the walls helps maintain the temperature and humidity inside without having to resort to artificial cooling.
Telmo makes wine in various regions of Spain, all delicious. Some of my favorites are the white from Galicia (Gaba do Xil), Lanzaga from Rioja, his Ribera del Duero, M2, and a sweet wine from Malaga, Molino Real.
The best lamb for me is not in Rioja at all, but in Ribera del Duero in the town of Piñafiel. There must be more asadores specializing in lechazo (milk fed lamb) in this town than any place in the world. With competition this fierce, my hunch is they are all pretty darn good.
Look for this logo:
And a wood-burning oven loaded up with lamb:
ASADOR MAURO provided what may be the most delicious lamb of my life.
It falls off the bone and has a delicate flavor, but not so much that it cannot still be recognized as lamb.
This is Ribera del Duero so make sure you have some of that rich concentrated wine to go with the lechazo, a good selection made by the owner’s daughter.
TIP: Most Asadores (at least in Piñafiel) are only open for lunch so plan accordingly.
Now it’s time to locate some of Spain’s famous suckling pig, COCHINILLO.
The crowd of locals and tourists alike all know exactly what to order at JOSE MARIA in Segovia. There are a lot of theatrics involved preparing each plate. First, the whole cooked piglet (yes, head and all) is presented for approval, it is then cut into large chunks with two dinner plates, presumably to demonstrate how tender it is, finally the dish arrives and it’s the moment of truth.
Could it be that I may have had the best baby lamb and the best baby piglet back-to-back in a country not shaped like a boot? SHHH - Don’t tell anyone! As you can probably tell from the photos, the skin was perfectly crispy and the meat perfectly juicy and succulent. The tag on his hoof is dated - one day after slaughter is fresh enough for me!
If the Cochinillo is not reason enough to go to Segovia, the town has other charms: a nice Plaza Mayor, an ornate cathedral, an impressive Roman aqueduct and a castle fabled to be that of Snow White.
Not far from Segovia, the town of Ávila is famous for some ramparts, sure, but what about Goat Cheese? The Monte Enebro from there has won global competitions and everyone in town knows it’s the “world’s best”.
Yes, it’s really good and yes, I did eat it all!
EL MOLINO DE LA LOSA is a beautifully renovated mill and a great spot for lunch (or cheese).
CIAO FOR NOW! Next Stop - Culinary Highlights of Madrid!