Khutor Vodograi,Karavannaya 2, in the historical center, is recommended by Grand Hotel Europe as having traditional Ukrainian cuisine with a lively atmosphere.  I must admit, I have low expectations for the traditional borsht, a Russian soup comprised of beets and meat garnished with sour cream. 

This version is a pleasant surprise- fairly light, the beets are mild.  Overall, it’s quite tasty.   The rabbit with potatoes is skimpy on the rabbit and generous on the potatoes.  It is oddly presented with the borsht rather than the other main course.  The duck with black rice offers a better value.

Russians apparently do not drink much wine, so I am not surprised to see the list very brief and very expensive.  I am surprised, however, to see that most of the wines wines are from South America.  It really doesn’t get much farther than Chile to Russia!   The wine’s label has a funny appearance and the wine is utterly undrinkable (almost).  Could it be fake?  Maybe I should stick with vodka tomorrow night...

Word to the wise- try to avoid eating lunch at the cafeteria at the Hermitage/Winter Palace.  The selection of 2 varieties of dried-out, pre-made sandwiches are a definite waste of a meal.  They aren’t giving them away either at 250 Rubles each (about $9).

The Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya Ulitsa 1/7, has a fun art deco styled lobby bar with attentive service.  Upstairs you will find its traditional Russian restaurant, The Caviar Bar.  The setting is elegant enough for a Tzar (or Tzarina, in my case) and I’m crazy for these glasses etched with the double eagle (a symbol of the Tzars).

The caviar is de rigueur here, so calculate your grams wisely because Beluga can add up quickly! 

5 grams each of Sevruga (left) and Osetra (right) are served on ice with the traditional accompaniments, eggs, crème fraîche and blinis. The caviar has a bit of a musty taste, but it proves to be a fun experience.  And to liven things up, it comes with a complimentary icy cold shot of vodka. 

Carrying on the ovo-dining theme, a black bass is beautifully topped with salmon roe. 

Beef stroganoff, coming from the expensive tenderloin cut, is also fit for a Tzar.  It may not be what’s served at a Russian Grandma’s house, but it’s fabulous.

If you like doting waiters, music by a string quartet and good food, this is for you.  And don’t miss the lobby bar!

The palaces of Peterhof (accessible by hydrofoil) and Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin (formerly named, Tsarskoye Selo) are worth the time investment. 

Peterhof has gardens and fountains that would turn Marie Antoinette green with envy.

The rococo-style Catherine’s Palace is stunning inside and out.  It’s just beyond the airport so it’s a convenient stop on the way in or out of town.  Mini-van tours are offered by several companies above the Neveskiy Prospekt metro stop.

The Grand Hotel Europe is elegant if just a little tired.  It has a great location and the common areas are fetching. Former guests, mainly political dignitaries and actors,  have photos hanging on the wall of the lobby.  If it’s good enough for Sophia Loren and the Clintons, I guess it’s good enough for me!

Ciao for now!

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