Thanksgiving 2009
Thanksgiving 2009
11/27/09
I have a rotation of many dishes that I like to make for this most American of holiday meals. Mine, of course, all have an Italian twist. Here’s the line line up for 2009:
Sedano alla Giudea
Sweet & Sour Celery
Minestrirne al Auttuno:
Carote e Finocchio,Veluta di Castagne, Puré di Sedano e Rapa
Trio of Autumn Soup:
Carrot & Fennel, Roasted Chestnut and celery root & Turnip Puree
Cappellacci alla Zucca in Burro Salvia
Pumpkin Cappellacci
Al Buffét:
Tacchino Profumato al Tartufo
Truffle scented Turkey
Stufato al Stinchi di Tacchino Aromatici
Braised Turkey Legs
“Gravy” al Albese
Gravy with Truffle
Mirtilli Rossi e Cotogna in Agrodolce
Cranberry and Quince in Agrodolce
“Dressing” con Castagne e Funghi Porcini
Chestnut Porcini Mushroom Dressing
Sformati allaZucca con Fonduta
Pumpkin Custards with Fondue
Patate Dolce Arroste con Salvia Fritta e Parmigiano
Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Fried Sage Leaves
Cavolini Bruxelle al Forno
Roasted Brussel Sprouts
Cavalo Nero con Pancetta
Kale with Pancetta
Bigné al Noce con Crema di Castagne
Hazelnut Profiteroles with Chestnut Mascarpone Cream
Pastiera Meridionale al Cioccolato
Chocolate Pecan Pie
Pera al Caramellato di Vino Rosso su Millefoglie
Pear Tarte Tartin with Caramelized Red Wine
Panna Cotta alla Zucca
Pumpkin Panna Cotta
We start out with some rosé sparking wine from Trento in Northern Italy accompanied by very light antipasti to get our palates warmed up, pinzimonio (sliced fennel served with good quality olive oil) and sweet and sour celery (recipe from April 2009 Gourmet).
We then move on to a trio of Autumnal soup. It is inspired by my findings at the Morningside Farmers’ Market.
Roasted chestnut, celery root/turnip and roasted carrot/fennel. Tip-the turnip tops make an excellent green to eat simply sauteed in olive oil. The carrot and fennel soup recipe is in Gourmet November, 2008. Each soup was passed through a fine mesh sieve for an extra luxurious mouthfeel.
The pasta course, Cappellacci alla Zucca, is my favorite. Its name means big ugly hat and they are a specialty of the area in and around Mantova in Lombardia and Emilia-Romagna. My version is more savory than sweet because I do not include the mostarda as many do. The prosciutto and parmigiano contribute some saltiness to counter balance the amaretti cookies (all in the filling). I serve it in the traditional manner, a butter sage sauce.
Thanksgiving is the only meal I serve “buffet style”. With the variety offered at this meal, I think the system works well.
Truffle butter is slathered between the skin and the meat for roasted turkey breast.
Turkey legs are braised in red wine (coq au vin style).
The second most important player in the traditional Thanksgiving meal is the dressing. My Italianized version includes roasted chestnuts and porcini mushrooms.
Gravy anyone? The truffle cream and truffle butter I add to the gravy really makes it something special.
Cranberries are served agrodolce style (sweet and sour) derived from caramelized onions and balsamic vinegar.
The green vegetables are roasted brussel sprouts (cut from the tree for maximum freshness) and purple kale braised with pancetta.
Two orange vegetables are served: roasted sweet potatoes seasoned with Chinese five spice powder and garnished with fried sage leaves and pumpkin sformati (an Italian-style custard) topped with fonduta (made from fontina cheese and a specialty of Valle d’Aosta and Piemonte in northwestern Italy).
The combination of purple and orange potatoes makes a nice contrast.
Sformati are delicious and impressive. I love the creaminess they lend to the meal.
Last but not least, I Dolci. The desserts also have traditional elements presented in Italian ways. Pumpkin pie is transformed into pumpkin panna cotta.
Hazelnut profiteroles are stuffed with chestnuts and mascarpone.
The pear tart tartin recipe I used came from the November 2009 issue of Food & Wine. The Dufour’s puff pastry crust (from the freezer section available at Whole Foods) is well worth the extra money!
Chocolate pecan pie is a traditional element that I just wanted to make this year. My version is not overly sweet.
Hope your Thanksgiving was wonderful too.
Ciao for now.